The Pig in South Downs in Autumn

The South Downs Pig in September, just as the kitchen garden tips into autumn. Squashes and gourds everywhere — piled on hay bales outside the greenhouse, scattered across the gravel paths, still clinging to their vines. The leeks and fennel stood in perfect rows under a wide cloudy sky, and the vine on the glasshouse had gone all the colours of October.

Inside, cocktails arrived with little herb pots and bowls of olives. The conservatory was warm and light even as the garden turned golden outside. Risotto served on the Pig's own plate — the one with the little pig trotting around the rim.